Half Dome

Despite my having submitted as many alternative dates as I could, submitting date requests on my daughter’s account, and having friends submit dates for me, I was a big fat loser when it came to the March Half Dome Lottery ….. How is that possible? Having set the goal of climbing Half Dome, in 2016, you can imagine my disappointment.

I was sad, frustrated, and a bit deflated by the possibility that I would be unable to achieve my goal because of a lottery system. Having never climbed Half Dome before, I was unable to conceptualize the need for permits, and felt perhaps it was an unnecessary hurdle. Yes…. I researched what the penalty would be if I climbed without a permit, and was preparing to take the chance until I learned I could be fined a significant amount of money and possibly be arrested. I did ask my boss if he would post bail, should I be arrested; he told me he would be out of town …. Seriously…. I also considered doing as others on posts suggested by hiking anyway with the hope of scoring an unused permit at the permit station.

Lucky for me, all those thoughts were for not because the “510 Hikers” had scored 12 permits for June and I was notified in May that they had had a couple of cancellations…… Hooray! But now what…. I had less than a month to fully prepare…. Could I really do it…. Would I embarrass myself…. Would I be “that person” who would hold everyone up…… Could I climb the mountain (both figuratively and mentally)? All questions left for me to ponder.

I had been hiking every weekend, with some very long day hikes equaling 15-18 miles; I had no concerns about the distance. However, with not a lot of elevation in my neck of the woods, I still had to overcome the elevation and my prior fear of heights. Yup… There it is…. The fear that keeps many off Half Dome.

I did my research…… I learned about layering, the importance of being prepared for weather, safety concerns if storms roll in, proper nutrition, and proper water. I read Facebook posts, googled blogs, watched videos and all alternated between encouraging me and terrifying me. Truth be told…. I would never know if I could do it until I DID it.

On June 9^th, I set off on my journey traveling solo. There were to be 12 of us making the hike. Some were staying the night in the park, others were staying at various locations outside the park, and some were daring to drive up the morning of. I had made my own arrangements to stay at Cedar Lodge just outside the park and traveled up early to ensure I was situated early enough to get a good rest. We were to meet at the trail head parking lot at 6:00am and I was determined to be prepared. Following the advice of all the trusted strangers who were kind enough to offer it via the internet, I ensured I had consumed plenty of water the days before, eaten healthy, and refrained from heavy exercise the week prior to ensure I had not over stressed my muscles….. Being a newbie, these folks were like my trail angels…. I stopped at Denny’s for Dinner and as suggested decided to carb load. What better way to start off a rather monumental journey than to eat pancakes, bacon, eggs, hash browns AND sausage.  Not many opportunities to justify a meal like that!

Upon arrival at my hotel, the nerves and self-doubt kicked in. Who was I kidding? How was I ever going to do this? I had only begun hiking 9 months earlier, and I died (mentally at least) on that first climb. Maybe I should quit… I’m feeling a little sick… there’s no way…. Oh my God, what have I gotten myself into…. All were thoughts that began to take over my psyche. All were tales of my “story”…. THE story that had been fed to me for years prior. I sat in a chair, outside my hotel room door, and watched the trees as they darkened with the sky. Calm came over me, and I recalled the words of my TaeKwonDo Sensei… “There is no trying, only DOing” and that is exactly what I did.

Wide awake at 4am, I was no longer nervous. Excitement replaced the negative energy and I knew this was going to be a great day. No matter how long it took, or how hard it was, I was about to climb Half Dome.

I arrived to the parking lot early; the first one from our group there. Armed with a day pack full to the brim with 3 liters of water, lunch, lots of Protein snacks, and energy bars I was ready to go. Watching the sunrise, I began to feel frustrated that the others were not as eager as I to get this started….. and then I waited. At 6:15, still waiting for the final folks to arrive, a group of us were given the all clear to take off….. Yay!!! As I look back upon my photos, I find those of me, at the trail head, with a smile that went from ear to ear. That smile never faded. 

After gratuitous group photos, I set my pace. I had quickly grown tired of the group chatter, and their pace didn’t match my own. Being a 49 year old, super stoked Half Dome virgin, I quickly was ahead of the group. It was a clear day, with what was predicted to be mild temperatures. The river was raging, the trees were a gorgeous green, and the granite walls of Yosemite were a backdrop that beckoned me forward.

The Mist Trail is notorious for its “never ending” stairs, steep incline and damp conditions. Despite this, I loved every minute of it. Having had doubts about my ability to climb these stairs, I made my way quickly, with only photo breaks, to my first views of Vernal Falls.   I think I may have lost my breath for a moment. Absolutely stunning was the scenery before me. It was here where I first began to understand John Muir’s statement, “Into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul”. I was on a Journey inward. I continued on, loving every single minute. While I was with a group, my photos are generally of me; I was rarely with the group, and having such an early start there were few on the trails. I was alone in the vastness and there is no adequate way to describe how amazing and freeing that felt. At the top of the falls I waited for the group, took in a snack, and simply enjoyed being present. 

Continuing on, towards Nevada Falls, I began again with the group and quickly found my way to solitude. I began to hear the crashing of the next set of falls, despite their still being out of view, and through a break in the trees I spotted a rainbow dropping to the ground….. Truly spectacular. I hit the base of Nevada Falls around 9:00am (to the best of my recollection) and I ran into a father and his daughter (I would guess 9-10 years old) headed down. Finding it interesting they were coming down already, so early in the day, I asked them where they were coming from. “The top” the girl explained, with a grin, matching my own, from ear to ear. “How can that be?” I asked her father, “It is only 9:00am.” He explained they had set out at Midnight and watched the sunrise from the Half Dome summit. All I could think was what an amazing memory that man had just created with his daughter; An experience of a lifetime. We exchanged photographer duties, giving each other memories to look back upon, and continued on our way. At the top of Nevada Falls is a trail junction with a restroom and nice resting spots. It was there I waited for the group to catch up while taking in another snack and shedding some layers. It was going to be warm. I reflected on the climb I had just made, and how “easy” it seemed despite how difficult my “trail angels” had made it sound. I came to the conclusion that I simply was living the experience without wanting to quantify it as difficult or easy. While just barely half way to the Summit, I learned upon regrouping, that some in our group were already out of water, others had found the potato chips they brought to snack on inadequate, and still others were realizing they had no lunch……. This was not unique to those in our group. I was hearing from others on the trail that they too had set out ill prepared. My confidence grew exponentially as I realized I was a true hiker….. I had physically prepared, mentally prepared, and showed up prepared.   

Continuing the climb, I again found myself alone as the world flattened a bit upon entering Little Yosemite Valley. The trees were HUGE, the air was calm, and the sun was shedding light on the ground beneath the trees. I had developed a steady pace, and stopped for brief moments to smell the air and wait for a glimpse of the leader of our group. Enjoying the solitude, I never quite let him catch up to me, but rather continued on once knowing they were still back there. After all, he was the one with the permits. As I turned onto the Half Dome trail, and started on the switchbacks, reality sank in…. I was really doing this…. I was climbing Half Dome.

Here the incline steepened, and although more challenging, I found myself in awe of the terrain as I began to move myself above the tree line. Between the stone paths, the towering trees, and the sporadic glimpses of granite, there was so much to take in. I began to play “leap frog” with other groups on the trail as we took turns passing each other on rest breaks. As I have since learned is customary on the trail, polite chatter began among us all as we shared words of encouragement and wisdom. Complete strangers, yet bonded through the experience of parallel journeys. At the end of the switchbacks, just prior to the permit station I met Lisa…… Now she was a true trail angel. She was traveling with her husband, their two teenage children, and her brother who was celebrating his 50^th birthday that day. She had a beautiful spirit, and I quickly dubbed her the “cheer leader.” Although her pace was a bit slow, she could be heard (even when out of sight) shouting words of encouragement to anyone who could hear her. Her energy was infectious, and I loved it every time we “leapfrogged” each other.  

Finally to the permit station, still super stoked and now very anxious to get to the top, I found I had to wait… AGAIN! Lisa and her family were not far behind me, and I was sad when they were able to move beyond the permit station without me. I wanted to stay near the energy…. to share her spirit. I waited for an hour, growing increasingly impatient as clouds began to form over the summit, for the rest of my group.  At last, the permit arrived and I was given the green light to proceed.

The trees vanished, and before me was “THE” mountain. There was Half Dome, in all its glory, and I was about to conquer it.   As I began climbing the granite steps, rounding the mountain up switchbacks, and simply walking up granite slabs I recall saying to anyone who could hear me “What are we doing?” Only to reply, again to anyone who could hear me, “Living the dream!”   The views of the valley were spectacular, with what I learned later to be Clouds Rest, watching over us from a far. Simply Amazing! I made it to the cables, with no one from my group in sight. I donned my gardening gloves (cloth with rubber on the finger pads and palm) as was suggested by my Internet Trail Angels and looked up to find Lisa and her family at the base ready to summit. We exchanged hooplas and she invited me to join their group. She with an abundance of energy, and her husband a steady calm. Two totally different spirits so in tune to one another that around them there was not a care in the world. Looking up at the cables I felt tremendous excitement, and a small amount of fear. Here was where many before me decided to turn back. Without me saying a word, Lisa’s husband looked at me and very calmly stated, “It will be just fine.” 

Lisa’s brother went first, followed by her two children and her husband. I was placed next, with Lisa taking up the rear. I learned, during the trek up, that both had climbed Half Dome before, and both still got nervous on the cables. It was then I developed an appreciation for the permit system. While not over crowded, realizing the 3 feet of space between cables was for traffic going in both directions, there was simply not much room for tomfoolery. Too many on the cables, at one time, would simply be dangerous. The cables are helpful, as the Dome is steep and the granite can be slick. Good boots, with a gripping sole are a must, and the right gloves are critical…. The advice from my internet trail angels was dead on, and my gloves were rocking it. As we waited for folks going up before us, or for others descending, I took the time to stop and take in the surroundings. The views from 8800 ft are hard to describe, as breathtaking is simply an understatement. About half way up, I began to ponder the real question…. Climbing up is a challenge, how on earth does one go down an incline such as this? I began to watch those descending, exchanging gratuities and glances as we developed a simple code system to determine who was going to wait while the other moved on; Everyone staying to the right regardless of which direction they were going. I saw some scooting down on their butts, some terrifyingly clinging to the cable, and some alternating between the two. Then, I saw a young man running down the mountain. With a hand on each cable, he literally would run down until coming to a climber going up at which time he would wait until the route was clear.  When he had room, he would run again until the next stopping point. As he came to my position I engaged him in conversation as he appeared to have the right idea. “You’ve clearly done this before,” I said. “Nope, first time,” he responded while grinning from ear to ear. “The key is to let go of everything up here (motioning to his head) and just go for it,” then off he went….. Isn’t that the key to stepping into our Journeys and Breaking free from our stories? We just need to “let go of everything up here.”

After singing Happy Birthday to Lisa’s brother, with everyone else on the cables, we all made it to the top. High Fives around, sharing maybe a hug or two, and off we went to explore the summit on our own. I recall being completely stunned by the beauty. Standing at 8,839 feet, clearly the highest I had ever been, I could see all of Yosemite Valley, various water falls, Tenaya Canyon, Clouds Rest, North Dome, and Mountain ranges far far away. Then I spotted the diving board…. Months prior to leaving on this trip, I had printed a picture of an unknown subject standing on the diving board. I posted it on my cubicle wall with a note that stated, “One day, I will stand here!” I was looking, now, at the exact angle where that photo was taken. Problem was….. The “diving board” was very far from where the camera had to be to capture that same image.  I had no one with me, as the rest of my group had not yet made it, and I was hesitant to trust a stranger with my phone.  I was saddened by the realization that there would be no photo to prove I stood there. Then, out of nowhere, comes Lisa! I thought they were long gone. Immediately calmed by her presence, I asked her to please assist. As is true to her spirit, she graciously obliged.  

I enjoyed an hour on the summit, walking every flat surface of it, peering over every side. Discovering I no longer had a fear of heights, as it was replaced by sheer curiosity and awe. I felt at home, at peace, and in love with the mountains. Finally the rest of my group arrived, at least the 9 others that made the summit that day, and we enjoyed group photos before I was ready to make my descent. It was time to head down…. It was time to continue the Journey.

As I got back to the cables, ready for my descent, there in front of me stood Lisa and her clan. How incredibly blessed I felt to be able to share this descent with such great souls. I patiently waited my turn at the cables and when the coast was clear, I took hold of both cables, faced down the mountain, let go of everything in my head, and ran as fast as the line would allow…….

All in all, I ……

• Spent 10 hours and 52 minutes on the trail
• Hiked 19.23 miles
• Climbed a total of 5064 feet
• Conquered the mountain (physically and mentally)
• Met an amazing human being
• Learned the hiking community is incredibly supportive
• Fell in love with the mountains
• Found confidence within myself
• Crushed my goal
• And……….. Stepped just a little bit farther into my Journey

Tips for Half Dome

• Permits are a necessary evil
• If you don’t have one, it is very possible to hike to the permit station and wait until a group comes along with extras.
• Bring plenty of water or a filter….. I saw many struggle when their water ran out
• Bring plenty of food to snack on for energy throughout the day
• Wear shoes with gripping soles for the granite
• Bring Gloves with rubber on the palms/finger pads…. If you don’t have any, snag a pair like that from the pile at the bottom of the cables….. Trust me on this
• Embrace the suck…….. It’s too gorgeous and spectacular to not enjoy every single second
• Believe in yourself
• Accept the encouragement of others and offer your own….. While you don’t know them, it’s a team effort.
• Have fun
• Enjoy the process