Hiking the Double Dipsea

Greetings fellow adventurers!

Hiking the Double Dipsea, was just what the doctor ordered 😊 

 I spoke in a recent blog about the value of a “tribe.”  Through such a supportive network, we gain both strength and accountability.  Everyone can use a good ol’ external push/boost/hoist…… whatever you choose to call it…. Once in a while.  Sometimes, though, we need to find that within ourselves……  to dig deep….. to listen to the voices (yes, we all have them) in our heads, and to ground ourselves.

In the process of launching not one, but two new businesses while still holding down my day job, I was beginning to feel the pressure.  This, and the daunting nature of my already dark profession, had me feeling the need for some meditative solitude.  I was feeling vulnerable and exposed, with courage escaping me.  Just as I was pondering the possibility of a solo hiking excursion, to process through this, I learned the devasting news of the passing of one of my prior co-workers.  She had dedicated 40 years of her life to our Department, working well past retirement age.  The “why” behind that was her personal decision, which I respected, and she ultimately chose to hang up her hat last December, just a couple of months before COVID shut the world down.  She died, suddenly, before ever having a chance to fully enjoy retirement.  Had she known that to be her fate, would she have chosen to work so long?  Wham…… down the rabbit hole I went.  Knowing the life expectancy of those in my profession is significantly less than others, and realizing she was not the only one of my peers who died before fully enjoying their earned retirement, I was faced with some questions to which I needed to seek answers.

We all have struggles and when things get dark, we all find wisdom, strength and support in different places.  Some go to Church, while others go to therapy.  Some seek meditation, while others run marathons.  Some read books, and others sit still.  I do a combination of many of these, and still at times find a good ol’ visit with mother nature is what is needed to hit the reset button.

As things began feeling heavier and heavier, I checked the weather forecast and learned the weekend was to be filled with gloriously warm sunshine.  Taking care of myself, I made spontaneous plans (like literally the day prior) to hike the Double Dipsea.  It had been on my “to do” list, for quite some time, and now seemed like as good a time as any.  I looked forward to the solitude of going alone, with no outside chatter to distract me.  My hike, my pace, my plan, my thoughts……  Just me!

Rising early, I was determined to make it to the trailhead by 8:00am as this 16ish mile hike was bound to take most of the day.  On the drive, my spirits began to lift some as I watched the sun rise and cast its shadows and reflections in the waters along the Highway 37 marshland.  For those not in the know, the Dipsea trail technically starts at the Mill Valley park and ends at Stinson Beach, with the Double Dipsea….. you guessed it….. requiring a return trip over the mountain.  I, though, was set on doing it in just the opposite direction….. Not to be contrary, but rather to enjoy a cold iced tea and deliciously gooey morning bun (fingers crossed they would have one) at Peets Coffee in Mill Valley half way through the day.  Much like cheese to a mouse in a maze, this was my incentive to make it over the mountain….. It’s the little things…. 

Anyway, I made it to the Dipsea Trail trailhead, on Panoramic Highway (Just off Hwy 1), right at 8:00.  With the music still playing, I sat in my car to finish my breakfast and the movement of dirt caught my eye.  I giggled as I watched a tiny little gopher working feverishly to expose his doorway to the rising sun.  After pushing what seemed to be an extraordinarily large mound of dirt out of his way, the tiniest little face peeked above the mound and made eye contact.  This was the start to a glorious day.  Taking lessons from this little critter, who had just accomplished a rather large feat, I set off to conquer the trail.

It was my desire, on this day, to stay present on the journey enough to appreciate all the trail brought me, and to stay focused enough to find each of the 7 Dipsea mile markers throughout the day.  While I worked through the chatter in my head, I promised myself I would stop to appreciate the little moments.  The day began with a constant up hill as I made my way to the top of cardiac hill in Mount Tamalpais.  It’s a beautiful trail as the first climbs travel through low lying brush with occasional views of the ocean and Stinson Beach below.   I stopped frequently to appreciate the warmth of the rising sun on my face and let out an audible sigh as I turned to see the expanse of Stinson Beach completely void of human presence.  The sand was immaculate and untouched.  Perfection.

After a very short stint, the trail begins its more serious climb on some of the steps the Dipsea Trail are known for.  These steps, of various sizes, shapes, and materials, began winding and transporting me through the trees.  The air was cool, under the towering canopy, with moisture still lingering.  I stopped frequently to admire the early spring blooms, and whole heartedly appreciated the songs the birds were singing.  Peace.

At the bridge, when faced with a “Y” option, I took a moment to pause and reflect on all the left “Steep Ravine” choice had to offer.  Being home to the iconic “ladder,” the Steep Ravine trail is one of my all-time favorites and I’ve led many groups up that trail. “Not today,” I thought, as I chose to veer right sticking to my original Dipsea Trail plan.  Continuing my upward climb, I remained in the trees on the single-track trail until finally I busted out into the sunshine just as my little gopher friend had done an hour or so earlier.  As if entering a completely different land, I found myself in a clearing with spectacular views of the Pacific Coast all the way to San Francisco.  Inhale…. Exhale….. Amazing!

After stripping a layer, grabbing a drink, and taking a moment to soak it all in, I turned left and continued to the top of cardiac hill.  It’s called that for a reason…….  This is a climb, no doubt about it, and the vibrating notifications of my fitbit was a reminder that my heart was getting a workout.  Slow and steady, one step at a time, gets you anywhere you need to go and for me, the top of cardiac hill was my first goal.  As I approached, I heard distinctive turkey calls off to my left.  As I listened to their chatter, I paused and stood still trying desperately to spot them in the brush somewhere up the hill.  They were being vocal but had no intentions of exposing themselves.  “Not right now,” I thought, as I made my way up.

The top of cardiac hill is an open clearing where many trails intersect.  Just as I was in life, at this moment I stood on a focal point with a choice to make.  Before me laid many options and while spinning in a circle, I could see a maze of meandering trails leading to varied terrain.  Some were uphill and challenging, others were downhill and coasting.  The choice was mine.  All I had to do was decide and take a step.  Before doing so, I opted to take a seat and watch for a moment the stillness of the ocean.  With no morning wind, the water was flat.  Calming.

As if literally cresting the mountain, the Dipsea trail now begins its steep descent down the other side where Mount Tamalpais meets Muir Woods.  Still in the shade of the towering trees, the trail was cool and damp.  The birds continued singing me melodies of encouragement and as the hour grew later I began encountering more people.   While the Dipsea trail, in these parts is single track, it does crisscross the fire road with stretches where the road is the only option.  I find the trail more enjoyable, but you certainly could take the fire road down to the same location.  To each his own. 

 While I exchanged pleasantries with those I passed, and enjoyed those interactions, I found I was most at peace when alone.  Feeling small among the redwood giants, and the grandiose park, I found myself reflecting on my life and the blessings I have been afforded.  After all……  Look where my feet were taking me….  Life is good.

With the Dipsea Bridge being out in Muir Woods, there was a bit of a detour which led me down to the road and around to the park entrance. What a production it was to watch as many staff were posted in strategic locations to ensure no one entered the designated parking areas without the required reservation.  A good example of our tendencies to overcomplicate things.  Just keep walking.

I did take advantage of the Muir Woods restrooms before leaving the crowds and continuing on the trail.  Embarking on the second, albeit much shorter incline, I found myself once again climbing.  On this stretch, you will have to cross the winding roads a couple of times, feeling a bit like the old Frogger arcade game….. am I dating myself?…… taking care to avoid speeding vehicles as they scream around the turns.   

Upon reaching the Panoramic Highway, which signals the top of this smaller hill, things get a bit confusing as there is no trail to be found.  Crossing the Highway and up to the right, you will take a left onto Bayview Drive.  This will dead end and dump you right back on to the Dipsea Trail.  After a short bit, you will again meet the Highway and finding no better way to get over to the stairs I walked along the Highway (a very short bit) until finally spotting the entrance to the Dipsea Stairs at the Edgewood Avenue Intersection.

The Dipsea Stairs are iconic, for lack of a better word, and consist of three rather long flights of various sizes and materials which essentially take you through the Mill Valley hillside neighborhood.  Each flight starts/ends at the street that winds up the hill, so care must be taken to locate the opening to the next flight while avoiding mistaking the steps to someone’s door.  This area is beautiful and is much easier to enjoy when going down.  You can imagine the difficulty in fully appreciating their beauty when going up this real-life stair master.

Having left Stinson Beach, four hours earlier, I found myself now standing in Mill Valley.  Crossing the street, and then the bridge over the creek, I found the Mill Valley Park which is the official “start” to the Dipsea Trail.  Remember, though, my quest was not for the park but rather for the Peets Coffee morning bun……  Yes, I was still crossing my fingers.  With a short trek through town, a bustling one at that, I stood in front of the cashier.  Anxiety peaked when my morning bun request was met with, “let me see if we have one.”  “Oh, please, please, please…” I said to myself much like a little kid hoping for candy at the cash register.  “Yes!” they had one just for me.  With tea and morning bun in hand, I copped a squat on a warm rock in the center island of town.  As I savored the sugary goodness, I sat staring at the mountain over which I had just come.

From behind me, I heard a young man ask, “Did you just go hiking?”  After explaining that I had, he asked where I had gone.  “I just came from Stinson Beach,” I replied rather proudly.  With a pause and slight tilt of his head, I heard….”But that’s on the other side of the mountain.”  “Yes…. Yes it is!”  With another short silence he asked, “How are you going to get back?”  “Walk……. I’m gonna walk.”  And with that, I enjoyed my break in silence while relishing in my accomplishment.  Empowerment.

As I enjoyed the warming sun, I reviewed my photos to determine which of the Dipsea Mile Markers I had located.  Remember….  Finding all seven was one of my goals.  Given Mill Valley is the start of the official trail, the mile markers are primarily visible from my return direction.  I discovered I had missed markers 2, 4, and 6.  Damn…..

At 12:30, with another 9 miles still to hike back to my car, I set off.  Returning the same way I had come, there isn’t much in the way of new “trail information” to share.  Instead, I will share the moments that helped make this the great day that it was……….  The things that brought me joy.  While on the first flight of the Dipsea steps, I was startled by quick movement up to my left.  I wish I could have gotten a picture of it, but I discovered the owner of the home had built a little dog house on the edge of their deck with the “porch” attached to the Dipsea Stair railing.  With a landing just big enough for a small poodle, this little dog was able to exit his home to visit passerbys.  Genius.

After the second flight, now a bit winded, I heard, “testing, testing” off to my right.  As I began to wonder, a very friendly woman, walking quickly in that direction, greeted me as I reached the top step.  Again, I heard, “testing, testing,” followed by some music.  Looking to my right, I saw a very small gathering of about 5 people sitting in chairs on the side of the road.  Opposite them, was a small band warming up their instruments.  Who can pass this up…..?  I arrived just as a neighborhood band started their first song.  Standing in the sunshine, in the middle of the street, I enjoyed toe tapping goodness as they serenaded me for a song.  Beautiful.

Once done, with a smile and a raise of my hiking pole, I turned and continued my journey.  The trek down to Muir Woods was uneventful, as was the detour along the road to the Deer Park Fire Road.  Now faced with the final major incline, I recalled my last efforts on this part of the trail years ago.  I had opted to join a local hiking group who professed to keep a very “fast” pace.  So fast, in fact, the organizer reached out to me personally to ensure I could keep up with their 2 mph pace.  “Of course, I can,” I responded confidently knowing I could maintain an average pace of that caliber.  Here is what I learned quickly on that trek.  There is a HUGE difference between hiking 2mph, and hiking an “average” of 2 mph.  They went that speed, or faster, regardless of whether they were going up hill or down.  I, however, averaged that speed by going 1 mph up hill and 3 mph downhill.  Needless to say, I think I “died” trying to keep up and ultimately sent them on their way when I realized I simply couldn’t do it.  Humbling.

Having struggled with that “failure” for the past few years, I had hoped for a different outcome.  I will tell you this, in my own “one step at a time” way, I slayed that beast of an incline during this outing.  I enjoyed the journey, rested if I needed to, and quite easily made it back to the top of cardiac hill.  Redemption.  

With only downhill before me, I felt my spirits continue to lift.  It had been a great day, and I had managed to find mile marker 2.  With only 4 and 6 left, I ventured on.  When I hit mile marker 5, I knew I had missed #4 somewhere along the way.  In both directions!  Rather than being disappointed, I knew I would just have to return another day.  Just prior to entering a wooded area, I spotted a beautiful cluster of tall red flowers swaying in the breeze.  Being unable to pass up this photo op, I stepped in closer and started snapping my pictures.  Movement caught my eye and what do you know……  A hummingbird entered my frame.  He whizzed in and around the flowers and a couple times hovered almost motionless right in front of me as if to bid me a good day.  Exhilarating.

Making good time, now, I entered an area where the trail runs parallel to the fire road.  Off to the right, I spotted three turkeys standing in the shade.  Given their location, they were quite likely the very turkeys I had heard but couldn’t locate earlier in the day.  As I approached, the male in all his glory puffed his feathers giving me quite a display.  A warning I would imagine.  To my left, I heard what sounded to be babies off in the brush and the females took the opportunity to scurry past as he kept me distracted.  Teamwork.

Shortly up the trail, I spotted mile marker 6 tucked away in the shade of a stately tree.  Silly, I know, but I think I actually did a little dance….  The little things.  With that, I knew I had missed only one.  Having not much left to top my experiences throughout the day, I made my way back to my car.  Having just walked 18 miles and over 40,000 steps, I was not tired or heavy, but rejuvenated.  The weight of the world now gone, I had reset.  I knew, at that moment, that I am blessed.  Life is good….. I am thankful.  

As I drove home, I reflected on the lightness of my spirit compared to the heaviness of my morning drive.  At that moment, my all-time favorite Andy Grammar song (Good to be alive) came on….  I cranked the volume, did my drummer moves on the steering wheel and belted, “And it’s good to be alive right about now.  Good, good, good, good, good to be alive right about now!”

Need a reset?  Take a step

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