Middle Velma Lake via Bayview Trailhead

Trip: May 26, 2018- May 27, 2018

Let me tell you, preparing for the first backpacking trip of the season was a nail biter. Heading to Desolation Wilderness, Middle Velma Lake to be exact, with snow still in them there mountains was questionable. The weather the week prior was all over the map, vacillating between rain, thunderstorms, partly cloudy and snow with temperatures forecasted between 27-48 degrees.

There were three of us scheduled to make the trek and we all agreed that short of thunderstorms or snow blizzards we were going to give it go. My dog, well, he was along for the ride and had no say.

Day 1: Saturday finally arrived and while it was drizzling in Vacaville, from where we left, it was looking to be relatively dry on the trail until about 2pm. Leaving early, we arrived at the Bayview Campground Trailhead (located at the back of the Bayview campground) at 9:24 am just in time to take the last parking spot. Moral of the story, get there early.

With packs fully loaded, we started at the Bayview Trailhead to follow the Granite Lake Trail. We learned from the ranger, there was a 30% chance of showers around 2pm, into the evening, and snow on the ground at higher elevations. The cool temps were a blessing, because as you have probably read elsewhere, the Granite Lake trail immediately starts on a significant incline. 2 miles up, to be exact, so even though we were hiking in 46-degree weather, we were all sweating. This is a well-maintained trail, with much to see, and good views of the lake about half way to Granite Lake. This first lake, I would imagine, is a great place to take a dip in warmer weather and would be your first chance to filter water, if needed. The trail continues to climb until Maggies Peak appears on your left. Just prior to Maggies Peak, we began to encounter snow on the trail. Small enough patches to allow for trail finding on the other side, but deep enough to require slow and careful footing to avoid post holing. The higher we went, the more difficult route finding was, and we were thankful for the plotted maps and GPS tracking we had with us. Sadly, just prior to the Maggies Peak trail, we followed the wrong set of tracks and found ourselves on a precarious slope. Traversing Maggies Peak on a ledge the width of only 1 of our feet. Needless to say, my dog Tyson was unable to make the traverse, so I had to carry him by the handle of his pack which required he dangle, yes dangle, over the edge. Had we not been so terrified, a picture of that would have been priceless. It wasn’t until the three of us were more than half way across, that we saw others much more expeditiously following a trail lower to the same place we were going….. Ugh. With a lot of team work, we managed to get the three of us (and the dog) safely across.

Thankfully, our reward was the end of the climb and remarkable views down the valley to Eagle Lake. We took a moment to rest and enjoy the view, but each of us was wet from hugging the snowy slopes and on the ridge the temperatures had dropped significantly with the wind picking up a bit. It was just plain cold. Trekking on, although we were meandering on flat ground through the forest, the snow was plentiful and the trail could not be seen. Following the footsteps of others before us, with occasional help from our GPS, we continued. As we finally began our descent we noted the Eagle Lake Trail junction and thought perhaps that would be our route home for different scenery and to avoid the snow we had just encountered. Tucking that thought away, we were back on relatively snow free ground, but now found ourselves hiking in a good amount of water as the “trail” had become a freeway for the snow melt. Still manageable, still cold, still gorgeous. Stopping for lunch, we enjoyed the views of Dick’s Peak/Pass fully covered in snow and the surrounding mountain range. As the drizzle began, and the temperatures continued to drop, we were thankful to be getting closer to camp. The trail was an alternating pattern of dirt and granite rocks to maneuver around. Just enough variety to make things interesting. Although the cold was keeping most wildlife away, the songs of the birds was soothing to the soul. While we encountered some other backpackers and day hikers alike, the trail was by no means crowded.

The original plan was to continue on the Granite Lake trail up to Dick’s Lake, only to follow the PCT across Dick’s Pass to Middle Velma. Once at the Dick’s Pass trail head, though, that was not something we desired to fulfill due to the significant amount of snow in the area. Instead, we chose to take a right onto the Velma Lakes Trail where we again had some route-finding difficulty due to the snow. This trail is about a mile long and takes you past Upper Velma Lake to the left, straight to Middle Velma. There is a water crossing, to get to Middle Velma, which is essentially the mouth of the river between the two lakes. We had been told it was passable, with some stating there was a log that could be used for crossing. Because the snow covered the trail, we are not sure where the trail is in relation to the log as we are not entirely sure we went to the water via the trail. At the River, we learned from hikers on the other side that we should head up stream to the log. Preferring not to wade knee to waist deep in the freezing and swiftly moving water we did just that. While the log was too narrow for me to cross with my dog, others were managing it just fine. Thankfully, next to it, was an area in the river that was ankle deep and comprised of flat granite. Donning my water shoes and rolling up my pants I successfully, and rather easily, carried my dog across. At this point, we had traveled about 5 miles in 5 hours and we were cold and tired. The trail does not actually go down to the lake, so traveling across the snow-covered terrain was required. Areas not covered in snow were swamp like and we worried finding a dry place to set up would be difficult. Thankfully, we found an area, sheltered by granite boulders, close to the lake and dry enough to set up camp. Middle Velma is a gorgeous lake, and we were lucky to have no one in our immediate area. Because of the snow, we were unable to fully ascertain how many camp sites there really are around the lake. We set up camp, enjoyed some hot tea, and relished in the fact that it really didn’t seem that cold. The skies were grey, but the rain had not yet shown itself. Before dinner we set off on a hike to the East and ran into the river where some rather spectacular waterfalls could be seen. Returning to camp we settled in, ate our dinner, and just as clean up began the rain drops started. With them, went the temperature. Significantly colder quick. The rain was not hard, and it was not significantly stormy; just steady enough to cause our retreat to bed at 8:15. Beautiful day.

Day 2:

We awoke to the sun rising over the ridge and what a welcome site that was. While the night temps had not dropped to freezing, as forecasted, the sun was energizing. In no particular hurry, we ate breakfast, packed up, and hit the trail about 8:35pm. The river crossing of course, was at the beginning of the trek and given the ease in which I had crossed it the day prior I made the silly decision to cross it without my water shoes. Barefoot, with my boots in one hand, and Tyson in the other I stepped into the freezing water. My first foot hit the flat granite and down I went. Thankfully forward, onto my hands and knees with Tyson now belly deep in the water. With me thankful to not be floating downstream and him thoroughly confused by the sudden situation, I carefully hoisted us up off the granite. Ever so slowly, we made our way across. Two lessons learned…. Always wear your water shoes, and unbuckle your pack in case you go down. Had I fallen backwards I would have been strapped to my 40 pound pack floating away with the current. Humbling to say the least. Once on dry ground, I learned I had cut up my foot and knee, and filled my boots with water. 4 miles in soaking wet socks and boots, over the snow, with injuries was necessary, but didn’t sound particularly fun. Thankfully, the sun shining on the snow banks, the birds singing their songs, and the reflections on the water made all that was transpiring seem insignificant.

We had a quiet trek back up the mountain until ultimately coming to the Eagle Lake Trail Junction. Opting to experience something new, with less snow, we went that route. Eagle Lake Trail is steeper than Granite Lake Trail and is comprised of mostly “steps”. With lighter packs, it was a welcomed change and the scenery (The view of Eagle Lake, and Eagle Falls) was just different enough to make it all worth it. The only downfall to this trail is that the closer we got to Eagle Falls, the more crowded it became. We were quickly thrust from the serenity of the back country into the reality of a tourist zone.

While the serenity of our camp was gone, the adventure was far from over. The trek from the lake to Eagle Falls trailhead/parking lot was about 5 miles. This got us to Highway 50, where on the Sunday of Memorial Day Weekend it looked like Disneyland’s parking lot. The place was packed, and the traffic was bumper to bumper. To get back to our car (at the Bayview Campground) we had to walk on Highway 50, uphill and across traffic, for a mile. That, my friends, was an adventure to be relayed another day.

Trip Details: