Mount Tamalpais ~ Dipsea Trail to Coastal trail

Mount Tamalpais State Park ~ https://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=471

Trip Report – Hike date 2/13/21

Distance: Approximately 18 miles ~ Elevation Gain: 3100ish feet ~ Time on the trail: 9ish hours

What better way to start the day, than with a rainbow! A group of friends and I are preparing to hike 26.2 miles in April as part of the 2021 virtual Bataan Memorial Death March. With a route mapped out in Mount Tamalpais, from Mill Valley to the Presidio, we set out on this day to do a trial run of essentially half of our intended route.

Although the forecast was for rain, we made our way to the start prepared for any weather, as the March will happen rain or shine.  We had to park almost a mile away (along the Miller Way median) as we learned parking is heavily enforced in this quaint little town. This, it turns out, was the closest place to park that would allow us to leave our cars for the duration of the hike. 

Although it rained on us, throughout the drive, a brilliantly colored rainbow was welcoming. Almost as if signaled by the locking of our doors, the rain stopped….. and with that, we were off.

For those who have never been in Mount Tamalpais on the Dipsea trail, you are in for a treat. It starts with stairs….. Lots and Lots of stairs, dispersed in several flights, through hillside residential areas. The one advantage to parking so far away, was the warm up walking that distance provided for this thigh burner trek.

Each flight of stairs ends at a street, with the next flight offset a bit so look for the signs and arrows to avoid mistaking the steps to someone’s home as your route.

At the top of the last set of stairs, we found ourselves on Edgewood Avenue. We choose to turn right, continuing along Edgewood Avenue further into the housing district.

Don’t let this being a road discourage you, as the trees are plentiful, and the area serene. At the “Y” in the road, we went right on Cypress Ave which ultimately dead ends. This too can be confusing, as it would seem you completely missed the trail. Looking closely, though, you can see the trail off to your right, just beyond a residential driveway. Don’t worry, there are signs to signal you are in the correct location.

Feeling a bit like being in a time machine, we were almost instantly teleported from a residential area to a forest of towering redwoods for which Mount Tamalpais is known. The single track trail traversed the hillside and while still muddy, from the previous rain, it was manageable. Having started at 8am, there was still a chill in the air, but the dappled sunlight gave hope of upcoming warmth.

Knowing we needed to go up to Mountain Home Inn, I confess we were a bit confused by the route. Rather than traveling up, we seemed to be doing more zig zagging and descending. Staying true to our planned route, we stayed the course, figuring we couldn’t go wrong given the company and beautiful surroundings.

Taking Cypress trail to Monte Vista Trail, we took a left at that junction, and with another quick left we walked on Cascade Drive to Zig Zag Trail.  It was here we found our up. 

It was steep, no doubt about it, and portions of it bared little resemblance to an actual trail.  Staying the course, we pressed on and ultimately crested the hillside just above Mountain Home Inn ~ our first of several set destinations.  The trick to a long hike is to break it down into chunks……  You know, the “you eat an elephant one bite at a time” mantra.  Small goals accomplish great tasks.

After a pit stop at the porta potties just across from the Mount Home Inn, we continued up Mount Tamalpais past the fire station and beyond the gate on Hogback Road.  At the very next junction, we took a left on Hoo Koo E Koo Trail which rather quickly connects to the Matt Davis Trail. 

Traversing the mountain, we traveled in and out of the forest with the beauty of flourishing ferns, occasional fungi and towering Redwoods awe inspiring.  When not surrounded by the towering giants, we were blessed with views of San Francisco, and the ocean beyond.  This would be the scenery for several miles as we made our way past Boot Jack campground (where we ate lunch and replenished our water rations) and into the Pantoll Ranger Station. 

Here one would normally find real restrooms with running water, but given COVID restrictions those were closed.  Many Porta Potties were set up, as this is a busy trail junction and tourist starting point.  Solitude is not an option here. 

Exiting the area on the Deer Park Fire Road, we joined Old Mine Trail to Cardiac Hill.  

Now out of the forest, we found ourselves on coastal hillside, with amazing views of the ocean beyond.  Being a sunny February afternoon, the warmth of the sun was rejuvenating, while the wind brought an uncomfortable chill to our bodies damp from the exertion of the previous climbing.  Being about 9 miles into the hike, we were relieved to have the most difficult climbs behind us, while being well aware that we still needed to go up and over a couple of ridges.

Taking the coastal trail, we enjoyed the stillness of the hillside as we dodged the occasional cluster of mountain bike adventurers.  Taking a left on the Heather Cutoff, we made our way off the ridge via strategically placed switchbacks, and into the green pasture lands below. 

Crossing Muir Woods Rd, we were met with a small, yet manageable, water crossing before we continued on the Redwood Creek Trail.  Here we began our last climb up and over the next ridge. 

At the top, hang a sharp left on Dias Ridge Trail (we missed it) to avoid an uncomfortable trek along the very busy Panoramic Highway.  Ultimately crossing the Highway, we re-entered the trail system at Homestead Hill.  Here the trails get confusing, but you can’t go wrong if you simply remember you need to continue heading to the left. 

We opted to go around the left side of homestead hill ultimately connecting to Cowboy Rock Trail.  While still in nature, the homes in this area are equally mesmerizing.  The architectural designs of these homes, clearly optimizing on the astounding views of the Bay, are breathtaking.  Ultimately connecting to the Dipsea Stairs, we made our way back to Mill Valley.

It was an undoubtedly long day, but well worth the effort.  Some things to note ~ Carry plenty of water, and top off at Book Jack Campground or Pantoll Ranger station as we found no reliable water (without a filter) past the ranger station.  Wear sturdy shoes as some of this terrain is slippery when when wet and uneven.  While this is in no way a beginner hike, one could certainly break this trek down into smaller sections easily doable by beginners.