May 12, 2018
Needing some time to decompress, I set off solo determined to conquer Mount Tamalpais. My trek began at the Dipsea Trail off Panoramic Highway near Stinson Beach. There is a small parking lot just across from the trail head which fills quickly so if you don’t get there early, it may be full. There is additional parking on the street or down towards Stinson Beach.
The trail starts with an incline taking you up a maze of stairs through the trees and along a creek.
Instantly teleported from the world left at the parking lot. It quickly opens to a hillside overlooking the ocean. On this day, there was no ocean to be seen as the fog was still settled just above the earth. While little sun could poke through, it was not a particularly cold day.
You will come to a fire-road and the trail continues just on the other side up to the right a bit. Approximately a mile in, the trail hits a Y with the Steep Ravine Trail. Stay left to enter what could easily be a scene from Jurassic Park. The climb continues, following a creek, but the forest is truly remarkable. Green and lush with the sound of the moving water to urge you on. Aside from the majestic trees, and variety of lush vegetation, the highlight of this trail is a 6-8 foot wooden ladder, leaning to the right of what at times can be a gorgeous waterfall. If hiking the trail later in the day, there could be a wait here as this ladder is the only way for anyone to move in either direction. This trail steadily climbs via steps and wandering paths to the Pan Toll Ranger Station where there are restrooms and plenty of places to take a snack break. As I reached this spot, the sun was just beginning to peak through. Having seen few others along the way, the crowd grows a bit as the ranger station is an intersection for many popular trails and a popular starting place.
With the sun now out, it was time to shed some layers. Layering is important on this mountain as the weather changes, sometimes quickly, as you make your way up. From the Ranger station, the trail got a little vague. Crossing Panoramic Highway, I followed the fire road a bit to the right which ran along Panoramic Highway. This took me to Bootjack Campground where ultimately I caught up with the Matt Davis Trail. This continues slightly downhill, through the trees, with an occasional glimpse of the Highway. No worries though, there is too much to be seen to be distracted by the distant noise of cars. Several miles in, the worries of the world left behind, I was able to enjoy the music of the birds, the rustling of the trees and the distant trickle of the creek. Moving at a pretty steady pace, I found myself now weaving in and out of the trees as I began to wind my way around the mountain. At times completely surrounded by redwoods, and at other moments on the edge of the mountain enjoying views far off into the distance. The variety gave time to fully appreciate the mountain I was becoming one with.
At just about 5 miles, immediately after a creek crossing, depart Matt Davis Trail for the Nora Trail to the left. This begins your second climb as you will follow some switchbacks approximately a mile up to the West Point Inn. Here you will find a perfect spot for a second rest. Quite popular among hikers and cyclists alike, there are porta potties, and picnic tables. If you check your calendar, you may plan your trip in time for their famous pancake breakfast….. Not to be missed if the time is right.
From here I followed the Railroad Grade Fire road another couple of miles to the East Peak visitor center. Although a fire road, it is popular among cyclists, and there is still plenty to be seen. Spectacular views open up to San Francisco as you continue to make your way around the right side of the mountain. For me, the skies were clear and I could see the Golden Gate Bridge and beyond. Great moments to stop, take a breath, and truly appreciate all there is to be thankful for.
At the visitor center, there are vending machines, restrooms, tables, and a small gift shop. It’s a push to the top from here with a fairly steep incline taking you to some spectacular views. One step at a time, and the mountain will be yours. On this day, I reached the peak along with a boy scout troop of about 15. So much for solitude….. the kids found it entertaining to yell from one side to the other. I found my perch, overlooking the city and despite the interruptions found moments to eat my lunch and reflect. How blessed am I to be able to make such a trek, and to enjoy all nature has to give us. As I sat there, the skies turned from sunny to cloudy and I could see a fog bank quickly rolling in. As is par for the course, timing is everything, as I knew in about 30 minutes those coming up behind me would not be able to see any of the splendor I was enjoying. The wind picked up, the chill began to settle, and it was time to put back on some layers.
Descending the way I came, I made it back to the West Point Inn just as the skies went dark. Unbelievably so, given the warm conditions through which I had come, I had to put on my pants and final layer which was a down jacket. It was downright chilly. From the Inn, I chose to continue down the Fire Road, rather than the Nora trail, to enjoy slightly different scenery. This dropped me back down to the Ranger Station where I jumped back on the Steep Ravine Trail for the final leg out. Given it was now sprinkling, I found few left on the trails, and at times it felt like I was alone in the wilderness.
As is par for the course, by the time I got back onto the Dipsea Trail, the fog had lifted and while the skies were now cloudy, the ocean view was a sight to be seen. Truly amazing day.
Trip Details:
- 14.58 miles
- Elevation gain 2635 ft
- Total Time 6 hours 30 minutes
- Moving time 5 hours 30 minutes
- Average moving speed 2.6 mph
- Trails up: Dipsea, Steep Ravine (one of my all time favorites), Matt Davis, Nora, Stage Coach Fire Road
- Trails Down: Stage Coach Fire Rd, Steep Ravine, Dipsea