Saturday 9/8/18 (3.5 miles, 1132 feet gain): Man did we feel lucky by the clear skies and warm weather predicted in Yosemite. Hard to tell, initially, as we left home at 4:30am in total darkness. With this departure time, we made it to the Big Oak Flat Ranger station at 8:00am to pick up our permits. For those who don’t know, permits are required to camp in the back Country of Yosemite. Despite our being there at 8:00am, we were still #3 in line with others before us hoping to score available permits that day. While understandable, I was terribly disappointed to learn Yosemite has a current ban on all camp fires. It seems the 10 recent lightening strike fires are keeping them plenty busy. Guess I brought the marshmellows for nothing. We were back on the road around 8:30am and ready to roll at the Sunrise Lake Trailhead (near Tenaya Lake) at 9:30am.
The trail to Sunrise Lakes is around 3.5 miles. At this time of year, there was no water between the trailhead and the Lake. The trail is well groomed, initially rather flat with only slight undulations, and consists of fairly soft footings. There are brief moments where the trail turns rocky, but never are the rocks loose, and there is plenty of shade. At about 1.5 miles, the ascent begins and with its gain of about 1000 feet in a mile, it is a heart pumping climb. This terrain becomes steps of various sorts with travel along switchbacks to ease some of the pain. When the heart starts pumping, and the lungs start burning, stop and take a look behind you as the views of Tenaya Canyon and the opposite Mountain range begin to come into view. All well worth the effort. During one of these rests, I was lucky enough to watch a tiny ground squirrel jump up on a rock, stand on his hind feet, grab hold of the top of a small grain weed, pull it towards him and eat the tiny little morsels; Very cute. Carrying a 40 lb pack, I was starting to feel it just as the ridge line came into view…… Yes! As you reach the top, you will most likely find many who went before you resting. Drop your packs, drink some water and grab a snack. Hold the snacks tightly, though, because the ground squirrels have grown quite accustomed to eating up there …… They are cute, but bold.
At this landing, there are several options. The trailhead to the left, will take you to Sunrise Lakes and beyond to Sunrise Lakes High Sierra Camp. The trailhead straight (as you hit the top), will take you to Clouds Rest…… Pro Tip: To the right there is an unmarked trail (two actually) that will take you to one of the best views of the Valley in Yosemite. The best spot is up and to the right so…… of the two unmarked trails to the right, take the first one that goes up a bit. Either one, if you go up (slightly right) and then out to the edge you will know exactly what I am talking about. Would make a wonderful campsite, except the closest water is a half mile away at Sunrise Lakes.
Given we were slated to camp at Sunrise Lakes, we took the trail to the left which is flat for a bit and then downhill and easily manageable to Sunrise Lake #1. There are campsites as you first hit the lake that are close to the water and/or have water views. This area, though, gets crowded and is right off the trail. As you continue on, and begin to curve around the lake, there is a “pond” off to the left (when we were there it was dry. During the wet season, there is water joining the two and this is a water crossing with a log down to assist you in keeping dry. Immediately after this crossing, there are campsites tucked back away from the lake (along the granite ridge that are quieter, more protected, and offer killer views of the Canyon and sunset. We set up camp at the site farthest back that provides 3-4 flat tent spots, a nice “kitchen area” with a fire pit (for when fires are allowed) and a rocky area where you can find lots of room to relax with canyon views or watch a Sunset.
Up the trail, there are two other lakes, with the second being about a half mile away and off the trail so it takes a bit of off roading to find it. Even then, we are told, it is more of a marsh than a lake. The 3rd is even farther up, about a mile from lake #1, and on the incline headed up to Sunrise Lakes HSC. I did not go to either of these lakes, but I’m told lakes #1 and #3 are the best.
Needless to say, we made it to camp around 11:45 so there was plenty of time to set up, relax by the lake on a toasty rock, or lounge in the hammock. About 4:30pm, while getting water from the lake, we were approached by two young ladies lost. They were headed towards the HSC and opted to ask us which way the parking lot was……. I’m sorry….. Did you say parking lot? They seemed to think their car was just 10 minutes away. While one insisted they needed to continue up the trail (towards HSC) to their car, I tried several times to explain going in that direction would take them farther into the Wilderness. After some additional questions, I learned they were returning from Clouds Rest and upon reaching the landing area (where the trails intersect) they asked someone which way the “Sunrise Trail” was. What they meant to be asking was which way the Sunrise Lakes Trailhead was and instead what they got was directions to Sunrise Lakes. Essentially, they turned right when they should have gone straight. Had they not stopped for directions from us, they would have found themselves very far from their cars after dark and unprepared. They were off course, both out of water with no filter, wearing minimal day packs with 3 miles left to hike and dark approaching. thankfully they caught their mistake early, heeded my advice and got turned back in the right direction with only 1/2 mile of misdirection behind them…….. Moral of the story…. Be prepared with a map, plenty of water, and whatever you will be comfortable spending the night in should things not go as planned.
Anyway….. The day ended perfectly for us with a quiet evening eating dinner and watching the sunset from our “back deck”. Glorious day.
Sunday 9/9/18 (8.8 miles, 1600 feet gain): With no alarms set, we naturally awoke early to a very brisk morning. It took some time for the sun to make its way to us, but man were we thankful when it did. It’s amazing how wonderful the sun feels first thing in the morning. With a quick warm breakfast, and some basic tidying behind us, by 8:15am we were back on the trail with day packs headed to Clouds Rest. The trek back up to the landing and trail junctions was done in quick fashion. Opting for the Pro Tip detour, we first set off to enjoy the spectacular canyon view. Despite the numerous small fires, the view of Tenaya Canyon, Half Dome and even Clouds Rest was clear. From there, we continued on the Clouds Rest Trail down.
From the landing to Clouds Rest, you will travel about 4 miles with water found this time of year around 1.5 miles (unnamed pond/lake) and 2.25 miles (very small “creek”). A filter is needed for both. Initially the trail descends quickly on a rocky trail so be mindful this will be an uphill climb on the return trip. For a bit after that you will meander through a bit of a valley, with slight undulations, on tree-lined trails with enjoyable views. Honestly speaking, the trail throughout is a great variety of terrain…. steps, rocks, sandy paths, dirt etc. It’s a nice variety making the experience not at all mundane. About 2 miles in, the trail will begin to climb in a gradual fashion with the trees becoming more scarce as you gain altitude. Still an easily maneuverable and wide trail but more exposed so be prepared for heat if the sun is shining. As you approach Clouds Rest, you may notice the effects of the altitude and you will begin climbing switchbacks on the granite. Keep an eye out for opportunities to make your way to the edge to get your first glimpse of Half Dome and Tenaya Canyon. Looking back at Tenaya Lake, from where you most likely started, is quite a treat and an accomplishment for sure. As you approach the Clouds Rest sign, the trail can be easily lost but if you look closely you will see steps and routes that are fairly easy to follow. From the sign, you get a great look at the ridge that stands between you and the top. Many get nervous here, and some choose to quit, as it is definitely a ridge with drops to both sides. That being said, even at its most narrow spot there is plenty of room to safely maneuver your way across the firmly placed boulders. I encourage you to press on, even if having to do so on all four. I think we lucked out because the trail, and even the summit was very quiet this day with minimal use by other hikers. As we made our way to the top, for a moment we found we were the only ones there. With clear blue skies we had amazing views of Tenaya Canyon to our right, Yosemite Valley to our left and of course Half Dome in all its glory. With binoculars, you can actually watch folks climbing the cables of Half Dome while you enjoy your snack or lunch. Standing about 1000 feet higher than Half Dome, there are many (myself included) who would say this is a better hike. Yes it lacks the iconic cables, but no special permit is required and Half Dome is in the view. Prepared with lunch, after taking our many photos, we found a spot and simply enjoyed being. After about an hour of down time, we retraced our steps and made our way back to camp.
Being mid afternoon, on a sunny fall day, we were hot by the time we made it back to camp around 3:30pm. The lake was simply too enticing so after dropping our gear we went for a “refreshing” dip….. OK, so maybe it was just downright cold, but it felt good to clean up and cool off. Finding a warm rock to rest and dry out on, a nap took hold. With dinner and sunset watching the next order of business, we put a close to a remarkable day.
Monday 9/10/18 (3.5 miles, 108 feet gain): With yet another early rise, we were packed up and on the move by 8:00am. Time to bid camp farewell and make our way back to the car/trailhead. Being essentially all downhill, we made quick work of it stopping only briefly to watch a Grouse as it wandered across the trail.
Remarkable trip…… Relatively easy with plenty of time to rest and enjoy what the park has to offer.